In our sartorial journey, we're finding more and more men who have no interest in wearing or learning the artful skill of tying a bow tie. There is an even greater populous of men who are afraid to learn. We can guarantee that given 5 minutes of uninterrupted time we can teach anyone the art of tying a bow tie. We believe that there are certain bare necessities of life and just like learning to ride a bike, tying a tie, wearing a suit properly, every man should learn to tie a self tie bow tie. We can somewhat empathize with the man that has no desire to incorporate bow ties into his regular wardrobe, because if everyone worn a bow tie, it would lose it's allure and appeal. We don't want to get off track from the topic of this post, as our focus today is on the neck tie. We are befuddled by the sample set of men and young men who don't own a suit nor do they have the slightest of clues on how to tie a neck tie. Every man and man-in-training should own a suit, know how to shine his shoes, know how to tie a tie and bow tie, and know their true measurements. As an adult and even a young man you may not be required to wear a suit and day on a daily basis, but these are good essentials and style fundamentals to have.

Interestingly enough, we recently conducted a survey of men ages 18-50 years from varying social and economical backgrounds and found that 53% of the men surveyed that are self sufficient have a hard time buying a suit or formal wear because they have no clue as to what their proper measurements are. Most of us leave it up to what we see on the mannequin in the store to determine what might look good on us. Window shopping 101, right? We've all done it! Sometimes we're successful, but most of us are probably less successful than we care to admit. Before you even get into how to take your proper measurements, we recommend reading our article "Fundamental of Fashion: Knowing Your Body Type. Here we delineate scientific physiological identifiers which will help us all determine best styles and clothing suited for our particular body type. Do not continue until you read my article "Fundamental of Fashion: Knowing Your Body Type". Go ahead, we'll wait!

You back? Alright! We'll just assume that you've read our previous blog entries that outline some basic fundamentals of style and understanding certain style nuances, digested the concepts and theoretical, and are now ready for practical application.

Well in this blog entry let's expound on what we have learned to date and allow our focus to be myopic for just a few moments. Myopically focused on something that may perhaps seem mundane, but is just as essential to style and your look as eggs are to a baker's cake. Let's focus on the neck tie. That's right! The neck tie! Ok! we're not going to just focus on the necktie, but the standard knots that are used to tie your necktie and how and when they should be worn. Like any other trend some knots are more popular than others and over the past few years we have seen the infusion of new complex knot designs throughout the fashion industry. Knots come and go, and most men know how to tie one or two different know styles and stick with those no matter the collar style on the shirt. In fact, I'm sure some creative geniuses will have developed a new knot and the trend will have come and gone by the time you've read this article in its entirety. No seriously! There are some pretty creative knots that are becoming increasingly popular, but today we'll speak about those knots we consider to be mainstays. Knots that have stood the test of time and are classics: The Double Windsor Knot, The Half-Windsor Knot, The Four-In-Hand Knot (also know as the simple knot or schoolboy knot, due to its simplicity and style), and The Pratt-Shelby Knot. Before we go into the specific details of each knot here are a few general rules for tying ties for the journeyman. We've incorporated some great YouTube videos as well as pictures with detailed descriptions on how to tie each knot.

General rules for tying a tie:
Remember when tying your tie it is best to put your tie on in front of a mirror so that you can see what you're doing — right and/or wrong — during each step. When learning through repetition, remember the mirror is your friend. The mirror will help you with determining the proper length of your tie, and at the final step, while readjusting your collar. make sure to button up your shirt all the way, including your collar, and to flip the collar up before draping the tie around your neck. Lastly, as a general rule, the wide end of your tie should be about twice the length as long as the thin end. Why? Because the longer- wider end is the part of the tie that you'll be manipulating the most. You should also let it hang on the side of your dominant hand to facilitate this process.

     The Double Windsor Knot

1. Lift up the collar of your shirt. Place the tie around the back of your neck so that the wide end hangs down on the side of your dominant hand, a little more than twice as low as the thin end.
2. Cross the wide end once over the front of the thin end and then around the back of the thin end a few inches below your neck.
3.  Slip the wide end through the back of the V-shape made by the knot, pulling it out the front of the V-shape toward your non-dominant hand.
4. Wrap the wide end around the knot on the non-dominant side. Continue to wrap the wide end around to the front of the knot on the dominant hand side.
   
5. Slip the wide end through the front of the V-shape made by the knot, pulling it out the back of the V-shape toward your dominant hand.
   
6. Wrap the wide end around the knot.
   
7. Pull the wide end through the back of the V-shape formed by the knot. Tuck the wide end down through the front loop of the knot. Pull down gently on the wide end from below the knot until the knot is tight. Grasp the thin end with your non-dominant hand and slid the knot up to your neck. Now you can flip your collar down, button up and you're ready to go!

When and how to wear the Double Windsor Knot: The Double Windsor knot is especially suited for a spread, cutaway, or extreme cutaway collared shirt that can properly accommodate a larger knot. For correct wear the tie used for a Windsor knot should be about 4 centimeters or 1.6 inches longer than a conventional tie.The knot is symmetrical, well-balanced, and self-releasing (i.e., it can be undone entirely by pulling the tie's narrow end up through the knot). It is a large knot, which amply displays the fabric and design of the tie when wearing a closed jacket or coat, and helps keep the throat area warm during the colder winter months. A large knot can distract attention away from the wearer's face; therefore, a Windsor best complements a strong square or round face, or those sporting facial hair.

Disclaimer: Ubiquitous Style, LLC does not own nor did we create the above Double Windsor Knot YouTube video. This video is owned and created by Sierra Trading Post. Video used as reference.

                 The Half-Windsor Knot

1. Flip up your shirt collar and lay your tie around your neck so that the inseam faces the inside. Make sure to let the broad end of the tie hang a few inches lower than the narrow end.
2. Take the broad end and wrap it from behind through the loop on your neck area.
3. Slightly pull tight, and then take the broad end behind the narrow end of the tie.
4. Loop it over the narrow end and back though the loop; just as you did in Step #2. Don’t pull tight yet.
5. Take the wide end and pull it through the loop you created in the previous step.
6. Carefully tighten the knot, give it some final adjustment, center it, and flip down the shirt collar. You are done with the half Windsor necktie knot.

When and how to wear the Half-Windsor Knot: The half Windsor knot is the smaller version of the Windsor, commonly referred to as the Double Windsor knot. The half Windsor has a more triangular shape than the Four in Hand knot. It is a perfect choice knot for medium-width spread collars and thick designer ties.. Because the half Windsor requires less of the tie’s length than the larger Windsor knot, it is also a great choice for big & tall men trying to wear a regular length tie. Of the four main knots, the Half-Windsor is the most versatile yet underutilized knot. You would do well to learn to tie this knot.

Disclaimer: Ubiquitous Style, LLC does not own nor did we create the above Half- Windsor Knot YouTube video. This video is owned and created by Sierra Trading Post. Video used as reference.

        The Four-In-Hand Knot

1. Place the necktie around your neck with the broader end on your right. The tie must hang lower down than the narrower end.
2. Now take the broad end and move it left and across the narrow end, holding the narrow end in your left hand.
3. Pass the broad end around the narrow end so that it is lying on the left again. The four in hand tie-knot is beginning to take on shape.
4. Pass the broad end underneath the half-formed knot, lifting it slightly.
5. Then, with your left hand, lead the broad end from underneath over the half knot and pull the whole broader end through to the front. Pass the broad end of the necktie between the outer layer of the knot and the layer directly underneath it, and pull it through. Hold the narrow end of the tie firmly and slowly tighten the knot. Do not forget to button the shirt.

When and how to wear the Four-In-Hand Knot: The Four in Hand knot is one of the oldest tie knots that originated in England towards the end of the 19th century. It is said that British horsemen invented this type of knot when they were tying their scarves with one hand while holding the reigns of four horses in the other – hence the name “Four in Hand”. The Four in Hand knot is one of the easiest tie knots to learn. The knot has a smaller, slightly longish shape that is perfect for narrow spread collars as well as for button down collar dress shirts. The classic look of this knot is perfect for British striped, and Regimental ties. Since the Four in Hand requires less of the tie’s length, it is also a great choice knot for tall men trying to tie a regular length tie to the right length – so that the tip of the tie ends near the center of the belt buckle.

Disclaimer: Ubiquitous Style, LLC does not own nor did we create the above Four-In-Hand Knot YouTube video. This video is owned and created by Sierra Trading Post.

           The Pratt-Shelby  Knot

1. Begin with the backside of your tie facing forward, the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length & thickness of your tie). Only move the active (wide) end.
2. Place the wide end of your tie under the small end to the left. Bring it up to the center, towards neck loop.
3. Place the wide side of the tie through the neck loop and down to the left and across the small end to the right.
4. Bring the wide side up into the neck loop from underneath.
5. down through the loop you've just created in the front.
6. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up and adjust.

When and how to wear the Pratt-Shelby Knot: The Pratt-Shelby knot is one of the most diverse knots. This knot has ranging utility as it can be worn with any collar style.

Disclaimer: Ubiquitous Style, LLC does not own nor did we create the above Pratt Knot YouTube video. This video is owned and created by Sierra Trading Post.

We've covered the four main types of knots for neckties and gave scenarios for how and when each knot should be worn. We know it's a lot to digest, so if it's necessary write yourself a quick reference guide and keep until you feel like you've gotten all the nuances down. Feel free to leave feedback on this article or contact us here with any questions you may have pertaining to this information.

Greg Johnson is blazing the fashion trail with his eclectic repertoire of Men's retro and vintage bespoke products. Covering the fashion industry for many years he’s amassed a Who’s Who of clientele across the Country. He is the creator and founder of Ubiquitous Style, LLC and the Style Editor for Brotha Magazine.  He resides in the Washington, DC metropolitan area with his wife Chandra and children Endea and Darin. For image consulting needs Greg can be reached at gjohnson@ustylellc.com or 844-287-8953. To view handmade bespoke products designed by Ubiquitous Style visit http://www.ustylellc.com.

This year Mother Nature seemed to be toying with us and kept us all on edge while we anxiously awaited the spring season. In some instances, Mother Nature even flirted with us as we prepped, and even completed the arduous task of spring wardrobe transition. Just when we thought it was safe, we got hit with another bout of winter like weather. According to the Gregorian calendar, we are well within the spring solstice, and I believe we are seeing consistency in the weather.  With the long winter season, hopefully we’ll also get to enjoy extended spring and summer seasons. This is the time of year when melancholy fills the atmosphere, family trips are taken, and love and happiness seem to envelope us all.  One thing we can all agree on is that summer and the beauty of its array are age-agnostic. It’s a trip of nostalgic sensation for many adults, and a creation of memorable moments for the youth.  In this article I want to cover 2014 summer fashion trends. We’ll cover summer fashion trends for the professional and casual male. The thoughts expressed herein are not considered to be the end–all-be-all, but a template each of us to build upon. I do not speak for a particular brand other than my own, so my recommendations can be applied with style from many designers. When considering a particular look to consider within your professional arena, always remember to adhere to any guidelines your employer may have first and foremost. Let’s look at what’s trending for the Summer 2014.

Summer Trend 2014: Casual and Professional:

“Be A Color Enthusiast”
Spring and summer seasons are the perfect time to be overly expressive with colors and style. From Derby parties to swank parties, the spring and summer season are usually times of the year when you can be overtly ostentatious. Whether casual dress or professional dress don’t be afraid to spruce your wardrobe up with a mixture of shades. Bringing in a myriad of shade into your wardrobe will spice up your appearance as the eye is drawn to color. Remember the rule “of the eye”. The eye is drawn to color, so make sure you have a balance; particularly if you are going with multiple shades. The professional dress can be spiced up with a colorful pocket square, or tie, but try not to go too overboard. It’s a delicate balance within the professional arena. Try to stay away from colorful suits or pieces, pants, and shorts while at work. Save those for casual dress outside of work.  You can definitely be a lot more expressive with color outside of work. If you’re looking to follow the trend, we’ve found that this summer shades of red will be extremely popular.

“What’s Trending”?
The casual and more dressy trends that will be extremely popular this summer season include the resurgence of the double-breasted blazer. We’ll see the double-breasted blazer in all fabrics and shades, neon trainers as well as floral prints on all articles of clothing. Men are even finding it useful, fashionable, and chic to carry messenger bags, or hand bags to carry life’s essentials (cell phone, wallet or money clip, keys); particularly in summer with limited means to carry all of life’s accouterments. The double-breasted blazer was a style that could only be worn by men with broad shoulders. They have been refined and can be worn by all casually and dressed up, respectively. For example, I styled one of my clients in a double-breasted seersucker suit worn with a long sleeve polo, sleek loafers, and accentuated with a contrasting and colorful pocket square. He added his own flare with a great pair of sunglasses and a nice watch.

From Paris, France, to New York, New York, we’ve seen an interesting casual look trend. This look has made its way in mainstream, but has not yet become a mainstay. Wait for it…. Capri Pants. That’s right! Capri pants for men are extremely popular and can be a good look when put together and matched right. It’s a delicate look, and is definitely not meant for everyone. When done right, it’s a trendsetting and fashion-forward look.

Shorts with a blazer are also fashionable looks for this summer. If you dare, try wearing a V-neck t-shirt and a bespoke/unstructured blazer. If you’re going to pull off this look, make sure the shorts have a nice length to them (preferable no more than an inch above the knees), and are not homemade rolled up shorts. Many men will accessorize with a colorful lapel flower pin on their blazer, leather bracelet(s), colorful bracelets(s), and sleek loafers. If you’re really trying to make a statement, shed the sneakers and liven up your outfit with a great pair of leather slide on sandals, espadrilles or espadrille-like shoe, boat shoes, or casual loafers. Wearing any of these shoes doesn’t require regular socks. You can rock these looks without socks or with loafer socks. Loafer socks are a great investment and a Godsend. They protect your feet during the sweltering summer heat, help eliminate sweat from your feet, and protect them from the elements when you wear flat shoes such as espadrilles. A wonderful attribute about loafer socks is that they are concealed below the ankle line. No one will even know you’re wearing them when worn correctly.

No matter the environment, popular summer fabrics are always a great acquisition. Steer clear of heavy fabrics, such as thick wool and fleece. Try to wear clothes that are made from rich, summery fabrics like stretch cotton, seersucker, and linen. Cotton blends are also a great fabric palate to choose from. Avoid wearing seersucker to work, but the spring and summer times are perfect times to wear lighter toned/color suits to work. Within many professional arenas, the dress has become more casual. A true gentleman finds it a delightful treat to dress up with at least a blazer.  I find that bow ties or ties aren’t always a necessity as corporate rules have loosened a bit on dress requirements. Nonetheless, keep it professional, and try to limit the wear of dark colored suits.

“Accessorize or Not?”
Accessories are not mandatory, but augment a great outfit. Pocket squares, bracelets, lapel pins, and hats are all nice ways to accessorize a look. Hats are always a great addition. Pork pie hats, fedoras, boater hats, and fitted hats help protect against UV exposure. Aside from the protection, they add flare.

No matter your color, ultraviolet rays pose risks.  Summer heat can be dangerous, so make sure you protect every aspect of your body.  A nice pair of shades/sunglasses is a good accessory to have as well. Limit inside wear of shades for an extended time as your eyes need time to adjust when changing elements. A man should always have a couple of watch options in his collection; casual as well as professional. I’ve found that watches are a great conversation piece. Light it up with color when dressing casual. Add a colorful lapel flower in different materials if you sport a blazer. I’ve seen them in varying fabrics (i.e. velvet, silk, and felt) and they have become increasingly popular.  Another newly trending style is to use a silk knot (bar or circle) in the lapel hole on your blazer. It’s subtle, but a great look.

It’s no secret (pun intended) that we all perspire more when exposed to the heat elements. I’m sure you’ve either been directly exposed to this or have seen someone who suffers from “sweaty armpit syndrome” or  “yellow armpit” syndrome.  As trivial and unrelated to the central theme of this article this may seem, it’s actually very important. Perspiration is a big deal, and many of us may have to change the antiperspirant to mitigate sweaty pits and/or yellow armpits. It can be embarrassing and take away from what would otherwise be a good look.

Remember, style is a way of branding yourself. It is your communication and projection to the world without the exchange of words. For those that read and follow me, I want you to know that I write about style, not from a vain perspective, but as a way to connect the art of style with the human characteristic of projection and preconception.

Greg Johnson is blazing the fashion trail with his eclectic repertoire of Men's retro and vintage bespoke products. Covering the fashion industry for many years he’s amassed a Who’s Who of clientele across the Country. He is the creator and founder of Ubiquitous Style, LLC and the Style Editor for Brotha Magazine.  He resides in the Washington, DC metropolitan area with his wife Chandra and children Endea and Darin. For image consulting needs Greg can be reached at gjohnson@ustylellc.com or 844-287-8953. To view handmade bespoke products designed by Ubiquitous Style visit http://www.ustylellc.com.